What is Fabric Grain? Sewing Guide
With this guide, learn how to find the grain of fabric, which is important for many sewing patterns. Also learn about fabric bias and selvage.
What is Fabric Grain? When sewing from a pattern you might have wondered what exactly is fabric grain and why it's important. Sometimes called the grainline, this part of the fabric is important to understand.
It directs the placement of the pattern pieces and the fabric cut from them, as well as affecting the fit of the garment or home decor being made. Here is a handy guide to learn all about fabric grain!
The fabric grain is related to the fabric bias and selvage. Selvage is the common spelling in US English but selvedge is sometimes used, particularly in British English. Learn everything you need to know about understanding the grain, bias, and selgage, plus how to find each on your fabric pieces.
When it comes to the basics of sewing and understanding all the terms, fabric grain is one of the most important. Hopefully this guide will walk you through all of your questions and more.
Join Sewing It Up For More Free Patterns, Tutorials, & Guides >>
This article is part of the National Sewing Month celebration. See what else we shared along with this project on the hub page.
>> National Sewing Month 2022
Explaining Fabric Grain
In simple terms, the “grain” is the direction of the threads (or “yarns”) in a woven or machine-knitted fabric. For this reason, felt and other pressed fabrics won’t have a true grain. Most commercial patterns are printed with a grainline arrow.
This indicates the direction the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric before pinning and cutting. Knowing the direction of the grain will allow you to work more easily, consistently, and accurately.

Woven fabrics are made with both a “warp” (the vertical/longitudinal axis yarns) and a “weft” (the horizontal axis yarns).
The warp almost always runs parallel to the fabric’s self-finished edge (the “selvage” or selvedge,” which we will discuss in the next section). The weft, therefore, goes from selvage to selvage across the warp.
Fabric has three distinct grainlines:
• Lengthwise (sometimes called straight-grain, runs along the warp, the least stretchy grain)
• Crosswise (runs along the weft, more stretchy than the straight-grain)
• Bias (runs diagonally, very stretchy)

Have you ever wondered what's the difference between fabric and cloth or other types of textiles? This guide will fill you in.
>> Difference Between Textile and Fabric and Cloth
Fabric Selvage
Selvage (or selvedge) refers to the “self-finished” edge of the fabric that is created by the manufacturer. It almost always goes in the same direction as the long warp threads of the grain. This part of the cloth will not fray and can also relay important information.
Selvage often has the fabric company’s logo and branding along it, as well as washing instructions, a note if the fabric is only for private use), etc. This finished edge isn’t usually included in the pieces that are cut out of the fabric but is still useful for the reasons above.


One of the most important sewing pattern tips you can get is how to best pin fabric and patterns for sewing. Read our guide and get pinning.
>> How to Pin Fabric for Sewing
Working On and Against the Fabric Grain
Now that the terms have been defined, let’s talk about using the grain while sewing. Cutting out pieces of material that are “with” or “on” the grain involves placing the pattern pieces along the warp or the weft lines (depending on the pattern, fabric type, etc.).

Working “against” the grain refers to cutting the fabric so it is on the bias (the stretchy diagonal direction). Bias-cut clothing tends to be flowier and the fabric will stretch, while straight-grain items are often more tailored.

About the Author:
Rebecca George is a handmade blogger and owner of the Chicago-based fashion line Purple and Lime. See her other articles on AllFreeSewing by visiting her designer profile here: Rebecca George from Purple and Lime
Want More?
130+ Sewing Questions Answered >>
Which do you prefer when sewing- along the grain or on the bias?
Read Next13 Sewing Blogs for Over 50
Free projects, giveaways, exclusive partner offers, and more straight to your inbox!
Your Recently Viewed Projects
Images from other crafters

Project of the Day
Portable Sewing Station
There is nothing worse than trying to juggle your pin cushion, scissors, needles, buttons, and other sewing must-haves while trying to… Continue reading: "Portable Sewing Station"
What's Hot

Something worth saving?
- SAVE all your favorite patterns
- ADD personal notes
- QUICKLY reference your patterns
Our Newest Projects & Articles
- Diy Simple Scrunchy - A Simple Sewing Project
- Favorite Fast Four Patch Quilt Pattern For Beginners
- How To Sew Fabric Bows
- Free Pumpkin Sewing Pattern
- How To Make A Quilt From Start To Finish 8 Easy Steps
- Witch Hat Halloween Table Runner Quilt Pattern
- September 2023 Mystery Sew Along
- 10 Minutes Hand Warmers
- Bamboo Handle Handbag Pattern
- How To Make A Perfect Log Cabin Quilt Block Tutorial
Free eBooks
- 11 Free Vintage Patterns: How to Sew Retro-Inspired Clothing for Ladies
- 11 Sewing Room Ideas: How To Organize Your Room
- 15 Sewing Patterns for Women's Dresses & Other Pretty Projects
- 25 Sewing Crafts from Bloggers
- 9 Insanely Awesome Sewing Ideas: How to Sew a Pillow, DIY Home Decor, and More
- Designer Inspired Sewing: 9 Beautiful Designer Inspired Knock Off Patterns
- Fabulous Fabric Flower Tutorials: 7 Ways to Learn How to Make Fabric Flowers
- Sewing for Baby: 11 Small Sewing Projects for Your Little One
- Sewing For Beginners
- Simple Sewing Projects: 16 Easy Sewing Projects for Beginners